Every nonbinary and trans person's gender-affirming care is specific to them. It might include certain personal identity changes, such as one's pronouns, name, and gender markers on legal documents; weekly injections of testosterone or estrogen (i.e. hormone therapy); surgeries; and mental health support.
Another way for a person to feel more comfortable with who they are and how they present themselves to others is via a gender-affirming haircut. Stylists such as Kitt Spata, owner of Youphoria Studios in Richmond, Virginia, are committed to meeting clients' needs in that regard.
"I find it boils down to autonomy and being willing to give that to the client. ... I think that's the biggest thing: being a considerate hairstylist and doing what your clients want, [particularly] with queer hair," said Spata in a video interview with the Bay Area Reporter.
Spata, who identifies as queer and nonbinary, opened their salon, located in Richmond's Carytown district, in October 2023 and has been steadfast in their client-centered approach ever since.
"I'm only one person — I don't want to assume for anyone. My whole thing is letting people tell me who they are and what they need," they said.
Transitions
Spata's been in the hair business for the past six and a half years, and their own experiences in education, others' work spaces, and with gender-affirming care have contributed not only to their personhood but also to the thoughtfulness they've put into their client offerings and studio space.
Prior to embarking on a career as a hairstylist, they spent a couple of years pursuing an undergraduate degree at Christopher Newport University in Newport News, a city in the Hampton Roads region of Virginia. During their freshman year, they majored in interpersonal communications and minored in media studies, with an interest in content creation and wanting to work for BuzzFeed. They decided to pursue other disciplines during their second year at CNU.
"I switched at year two to study sculpture and art history with a minor in museum studies because I loved working with my hands," Spata explained.
It was also around that time that a significant personal experience transpired: Spata walked into a salon chain in proximity to their campus and walked out, post-cut, with a much shorter style.
"I did it at a Supercuts across from Christopher Newport, and he [i.e. the stylist] didn't question shit. He was like, 'Yeah, let's do it.' To have that happen, I understand, is rare, but I think it inspired me to be that kind of provider," said Spata.
"I realized I could combine talking to people all day, working with my hands, not working at a desk — all of that. I also saw how affirming it was for me to have my hair cut off and to have the experience go well," they added.
They rerouted to the career direction they felt was a good fit for them, leaving the CNU art classes and lecture halls behind in December 2017 to gain hands-on experience with sheers and razors in salons. The two apprenticeships they did achieved that objective, but Spata's time in those spaces was less than queer-friendly, they said.
"Neither of them were affirming, and neither of them liked me being trans. ... Even though they had a trans flag on their front door, they were not willing to do anything to meet me where I was at," Spata said.
Spata had been out for about a year at the time and was in therapy; they hadn't started T (testosterone) yet.
[T]hey just didn't care, " they added, conveying the lack of support they felt as an openly queer person in the salons.
With those not-so-great industry experiences under their belt, Spata decided to get in some additional formal education, spending a year and a half at Paul Mitchell The School, a beauty school and salon space in Tysons Corner Center. (The school has closed, as of May 2024.) Post-graduation, they found work in a barbershop located near the Fort Belvoir Army Base; at the time, they had also started hormone therapy.
"I was getting asked if I was a boy or girl by walk-ins multiple times a week because I was two months on T and very androgynous. I was handed pamphlets a few times by clients. They were Christian, 'Seek Jesus' type things. And I was like, 'Holy shit. All I did was cut your hair. We didn't talk about me.' It was wild," Spata commented.
One pamphlet-distributing client sitting in Spata's chair shared with Spata that he was pursuing a degree in religious studies.
"I was like, 'Cool. My brother did, too. I was raised Catholic.' We literally talked about it, but he still handed me the pamphlet. I was like, 'Dude, I did nothing but acknowledge and respect you,'" said Spata about the incident.
The client, though, was undeterred, insisting that Spata needed the religious brochure.
"I was like, 'Trust me, I'm going to throw it out.' It was crazy," Spata recalled.
Add the issue of an unsupportive barbershop owner to the "what binary gender are you" continual line of questioning and homophobia, and Spata was more than ready to head elsewhere — not necessarily out of the state "for lovers," but at least to a different hub within it: Richmond.
New city, new perspective
In the 2024 U.S. presidential election, Democratic candidate Kamala Harris claimed Virginia, winning its 13 electoral votes (with 51.8%, or 2,227,756 votes as of press time) compared to Republican candidate and President-elect Donald Trump (with 46.6%, or 2,003,384 votes as of press time), according to the Associated Press. Notably, Virginia has been a blue state for the past four presidential elections (Joe Biden, 2020; Hilary Clinton, 2016; Barack Obama, 2012, 2008).
"If you told high school Kitt that I would still be here at 27, I'd 100% be like, 'What is wrong?' Because I never really liked Virginia," they said.
Richmond, though, works just fine for them.
"I moved here three years ago, when I was about eight to 10 months on T, and I found better hair and better people," they said.
In the Human Rights Campaign's 2024 Municipal Equality Index, Richmond attained 100 out of a possible 100 points on its scorecard. The report, published annually in November, is a nationwide evaluation of municipal law that considers aspects such as a city's non-discrimination laws, the city leadership's commitment to the LGBTQ+ community; LGBTQ+ employee protections, municipal services, and fair enforcement of the law, including the "responsible reporting of hate crimes and [law enforcement's] engaging with the LGBTQ+ community in a thoughtful and respectful way."
The city is home to queer spaces such as Babes of Carytown, a longstanding LGBTQ+ bar, and Diversity Richmond, the nonprofit organization behind the annual VA Pridefest, held in September. There's also the website, OutRVA, an online resource for the Richmond queer community and visitors.
"It's really interesting, because Richmond has a horrible history of Confederacy, slavery, all of it, but the city is now very much acknowledging [its history] and progressing," Spata commented.
"For queer people, we feel safer, because you see people expressing [themselves] in any way they want to. You see corporate people with mullets, stuff like that. People aren't afraid to be a little funkier here," they added.
Once situated in Richmond, Spata initially set up shop in a couple of salons, including a booth rental in the queer-owned Body Politic Hair Studios. After about two years of working in others' spaces, Spata made the official move of their brand Youphoria and their services into a physical location of their own.
Spata's Youphoria Studios, located in a multi-room building housing other small businesses, is now among the many boutiques, eateries, and bars located along the Carytown neighborhood's West Cary Street.
"It's been so much better because it's the same amount of rent and I have privacy, and my people can talk to me, and I can talk to my people. And now I'm completely under my own name," they shared.
A gender-affirming salon network
Type in something along the lines of "gender-affirming hair places" in Google and a top result, other than Reddit discussion forums, will be Strands for Trans, a global registry of 7,500-plus gender-affirming salons and barbershops, founded by Xavier Cruz and JP Gomez. Gay cisgender men, Cruz and Gomez are also the owners of Barba, a gender-inclusive grooming boutique in New York City.
Spata takes part in Strands for Trans, both as a gender-affirming salon owner, with Youphoria Studios listed on the website via a state, city, or ZIP code search, and as a board member.
"I call them [i.e., Cruz and Gomez] my 'hair dads.' They're lovely people. ... They reached out to me through seeing me tag them [on social media] and stuff, and they asked me to be on their board," said Spata.
In an email to the B.A.R., Cruz praised Spata and described working with them as being "an absolute privilege."
"From the moment we connected through our S4T instagram account where Kitt started tagging us in their posts, it was clear they were someone special. During our first Zoom meeting, we quickly realized Kitt is much more than a talented barber—they're a passionate, intelligent, and deeply involved leader in the community. Kitt's outspoken dedication and drive made them the perfect choice to become one of our very first board members at Strands For Trans," Cruz wrote.
The board is primarily made up of trans people, with Spata, who's worked with the organization for about two years, contributing to the registry's development.
"Strands for Trans is definitely a needed resource. It's just hard to have something so new and so needed at the same time, because you can't work out the kinks. So that's what we're working on: making sure people are as vetted as we want them to be," they said.
The aim is to have a standard in place for the salons and barbershops to ensure all places listed are safe, inclusive spaces for those seeking gender-affirming services. Those interested in registering on Strands for Trans have to first go through a training, which Spata helped create. Post-successful training completion, they will be added to the website. It might sound straightforward enough, but there are some complexities to consider.
"It's really hard because there are salons and there are booth rentals, and someone who's booth rental in a salon could be affirming, but the salon might not be affirming. There's a lot of nuance and a lot of new situations with how the hair industry is evolving into more salon rental and booth rental situations where the person may not be under that name, business-wise," explained Spata.
Once a person finds their local list of gender-affirming salons on Strands for Trans, Spata suggests further researching each listing, whether pulling up official websites or checking out their social media profiles and posts.
Meticulous considerations
When it comes to Youphoria Studios, the research process involves a simple step: heading to Spata's Instagram profile, with over 27,000 followers, for confirmation of their artistry and preciseness when it comes to gender-affirming cuts.
"Sometimes I have new clients coming in, giving me the textbook definition of a haircut and being like, 'I want a drop skin fade from this guard to this guard.' And I'm like, 'Word. Let's do it,' and I do it," they said.
When it's time to reveal Spata's work in the mirror, the clients convey their joy and gratitude, but they're also surprised that Spata cut their hair exactly how they had asked.
"The next time they come to me, they ask for something a little different. We talk about it, and they're like, 'Last time, you gave me exactly what I asked for, and that's amazing. I just didn't expect to get it,'" Spata shared.
"It comes down to them not getting the autonomy [from other stylists]. It's really interesting to see people assume they're not going to get something. ... And I'm so grateful people see that I did what they asked and not that I did what I wanted, because they would not come back," they said, with a laugh.
Spata's considerations of their clients also include texting them pre-appointment pertinent information, such as Youphoria's address and parking options, and providing a Google form-based questionnaire in which clients can include their chosen name, pronouns, and accommodation requests, such as no talking or music, facing away from the mirror, and the availability of fidget (i.e. sensory) toys.
Their own neurodivergences (ADHD, autism) contribute to their interest in, and ability to meet, clients where they're at and be open to others' experiences, Spata noted.
"A lot of what I do is sensory work, and hair is one of the biggest sensory icks for people. Definitely gender-wise, I know it can make things so hard," they said.
Spata did not disclose details about annual revenue or their number of clients, but online Google reviews attest to clients' satisfaction with their gender-affirming cuts and feeling of comfort.
"Kitt is an amazing person who has been cutting my hair for over a year now. I appreciate how attentive they are to your particular needs, and my favorite thing is that they are always double checking with you about what you want, if something is okay, and ensuring you feel listened to," wrote Melody de Castro Bohannan, who identifies as queer, in their review.
"Getting my haircut used to be anxiety inducing because I would have to justify my haircut to a stylist, with Kitt there are no assumptions made regarding what my hair 'should' look like and all that matters is what haircut affirms who I am!," they also commented.
Another client, Unmai Arokiasamy, shared why they continue to book appointments at Youphoria Studios.
"I've gotten my hair cut about three times by Kitt in the last five months and every experience has been so wonderful! Kitt is so open, curious, and creative, and I always feel cared for and taken care of when sitting in their salon. Their space [is] full of beautiful queer art and energy, and we have had lots of fun throughout each haircut. I always feel like a badass when I leave their space and I appreciate the work and engagement they always so willingly give!!" wrote Arokiasamy, who told the B.A.R. they identify as Two-Spirit and queer.
Caden Martz echoed others' sentiments about Spata's client-centering approach.
"Kitt is an excellent stylist/barber and a genuinely amazing person. I've been thrilled with all of the haircuts I've had from them, and have found the entire experience with Kitt relaxing, affirming, and enjoyable. Can't recommend them enough! Really appreciate how they check in to make sure they're understanding what I'm saying," wrote Martz, who is nonbinary, in their review.
For Spata, it has been — and will continue to be — about their clients' autonomy and open communication.
"Hairstylists frequently kind of get wrapped up in the sense that we give people their appearance, but we need to be facilitators, not doing what we want," they said.
This story is part of the Digital Equity Local Voices Fellowship lab through News is Out. The lab initiative is made possible with support from Comcast NBCUniversal.
Updated, 12/4/24: This article has been updated with comments from Xavier Cruz.
Never miss a story! Keep up to date on the latest news, arts, politics, entertainment, and nightlife.
Sign up for the Bay Area Reporter's free weekday email newsletter. You'll receive our newsletters and special offers from our community partners.
Support California's largest LGBTQ newsroom. Your one-time, monthly, or annual contribution advocates for LGBTQ communities. Amplify a trusted voice providing news, information, and cultural coverage to all members of our community, regardless of their ability to pay -- Donate today!